Burberry's iconic check pattern, once synonymous with aspirational British style, spent years languishing in the fashion wilderness. Associated with a "chav" aesthetic and a distinctly downmarket crowd, the brand's signature Nova check seemed destined for the clearance rack of history. Yet, a remarkable turnaround has seen the check not only survive but thrive, reclaiming its place in high fashion. This resurgence, however, highlights a complex narrative: a journey from perceived nadir to renewed prestige, punctuated by periods of questionable design choices and a near-catastrophic slump. This article explores the highs and lows of Burberry's checkered past, focusing on the evolution of its iconic print and its impact on perceptions of both adult and children's wear.
Burberry's Problematic Nova Check Print: Here's a Brief History
The Burberry check, officially known as the Nova check, wasn't always a symbol of questionable taste. Its origins lie in the practical functionality of outerwear. Thomas Burberry, the brand's founder, developed gabardine, a revolutionary water-resistant fabric, in the late 19th century. The check itself, first introduced in the 1920s, initially served a purely practical purpose: identifying authentic Burberry garments amidst a sea of imitations. This early association with quality and heritage laid the foundation for the brand's future success.
However, the check's journey wasn't always smooth sailing. As Burberry expanded its reach, the iconic pattern became more widely accessible, and inevitably, less exclusive. The brand's aggressive licensing deals in the latter half of the 20th century diluted its prestige. The check, once a mark of quality, began appearing on everything from luggage to umbrellas, often in cheaply made imitations. This overexposure, coupled with the rise of fast fashion, significantly contributed to the check's association with a less-than-desirable demographic. By the early 2000s, the Nova check had become a symbol of a certain kind of working-class aesthetic, often derisively labeled "chav chic." This period saw a significant decline in the brand's image and sales, forcing a critical reassessment of its strategy.
It’s Taken 17 Years, But Thanks to Irina Shayk, Mother (and a Whole Lot More)
The turnaround wasn't solely attributed to one celebrity endorsement, though Irina Shayk's association with the brand undoubtedly helped. The revival was a meticulously orchestrated campaign involving a multifaceted approach. The appointment of Christopher Bailey as chief creative officer in 2001 marked a turning point. Bailey, with his understanding of both heritage and contemporary fashion, embarked on a long-term strategy to reposition Burberry. This involved a careful reintroduction of the Nova check, not as a dominant feature, but as a subtle detail incorporated into sophisticated, modern designs.
The brand invested heavily in digital marketing and social media, connecting with a younger, more discerning audience. Collaborations with artists and designers helped to infuse the brand with a sense of creativity and exclusivity. Most importantly, Burberry focused on creating high-quality, desirable garments that transcended fleeting trends. The brand's commitment to sustainability and ethical practices further enhanced its appeal to a socially conscious consumer base. The slow, steady climb back to the top wasn't just about showcasing the check; it was about rebuilding the brand's entire identity and values.
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